Discovering the Feast of the Red Vest

Portugal’s unique Festa do Colete Encarnado.

Running the bulls. Digital art by Paul Wilcox.

Nestled along the banks of the River Tagus, Vila Franca de Xira, a town on the outskirts of Lisbon, Portugal, is surrounded by the lush, fertile plains known as the lezírias. These alluvial plains are diligently overseen by the Campinos, the renowned cowboys of Ribatejo, who manage the horses and bulls bred in the area. The town is celebrated for the steadfast dedication of its bullfighting aficionados and is famous for an event that captures the spirit of Portuguese tradition, culture, and community: the Festa do Colete Encarnado, or the Feast of the Red Vest. Celebrated annually in the first weekend of July, this festivity is a vivid homage to the local bull-running culture and a tribute to the Campinos, the skilled horsemen who have shaped the region's agrarian life.

A Rich Historical Tapestry.

Digital art by Paul Wilcox.

The Colete Encarnado festival was first held on July 16th and 17th, 1932, initiated by a group led by José Van-Zeller Pereira Palha. A staunch advocate of his cultural heritage, Palha envisioned a celebration to honor the Campinos and to raise funds for local firefighters. The festival's success quickly made it a cornerstone of Ribatejo tradition. To this day, Vila Franca de Xira comes alive with contagious enthusiasm, renewing communal bonds each year.

The Thrill of the Bull Run.

The festival spans three days, packed with various activities that attract thousands of visitors. At the heart of the festival is the bull run, a thrilling spectacle that draws thousands of locals and tourists alike. Unlike the more famous running of the bulls in Pamplona, Spain, Vila Franca de Xira’s bull run is characterized by a more intimate, communal atmosphere. Participants, dressed in traditional attire, run alongside the bulls through the narrow streets, creating a pulse-quickening experience that combines adrenaline with cultural pride. Safety measures are always in place, ensuring that the event remains as safe as it is exhilarating.

A Celebration of Tradition and Community.

Beyond the bull run, the Festa do Colete Encarnado is a tapestry of various events that celebrate local traditions. Parades, featuring floats adorned with flowers and carrying representations of historical scenes, snake through the town's streets, offering a visual feast for attendees. Traditional Portuguese music and dance, including performances of the fado, fill the air, creating an atmosphere of joyous celebration and cultural reverence.

Another highlight is the procession of Campinos on horseback. Clad in their emblematic red vests, they parade through the town, showcasing their exceptional horsemanship and paying homage to their ancestors. This procession is often accompanied by the sound of cowbells and the sight of elaborately decorated ox carts, adding to the festival’s rustic charm.

Watch the video from the 2023 festival.

Culinary Delights.

No Portuguese festival would be complete without an array of culinary delights, and the Festa do Colete Encarnado is no exception. Street stalls and local restaurants offer a variety of traditional dishes, from succulent grilled sardines and bifanas (marinated pork sandwiches) to rich pastries and regional wines. These gastronomic offerings provide festivalgoers with a true taste of Ribatejo’s culinary heritage, making the feast as much about food as it is about festivity.

The Spirit of Togetherness.

The Festa do Colete Encarnado is more than just a series of events; it’s a manifestation of the region's spirit and communal bonds. For the residents of Vila Franca de Xira, the festival is a time to reconnect with their roots, celebrate their heritage, and foster a sense of unity. For visitors, it offers a unique glimpse into Portuguese culture and traditions, wrapped in the warmth and hospitality for which the country is renowned.

If you visit:

Learn more about the festival from the official Câmara de Vila Franca de Xira website.

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Until next time…

Obrigada!

Carol.