Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros: A Classic Portuguese Douro Manor Above Pinhão
History, warm hosts, serene facilities, and a perfect gateway to Pinhão’s viewpoints and world-class quintas.
Dear Readers,
High above the Douro River, in the terraced hills of Chanceleiros near Pinhão, Portugal, sits Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros, a place that feels both timeless and personal. Once an 18th-century manor house, it has been lovingly restored into one of the most authentic and charming stays in Portugal’s wine country.
During a Douro Valley trip, Paul and I spent three nights in this enchanting guesthouse.
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A Brief History of the Manor
The title “Visconde de Chanceleiros” dates to 1865 when King Luís I bestowed it upon a local nobleman. The manor that bears his name reflects the understated grandeur of the Douro’s golden age.
In the 1990s, German couple Kurt and Ursula Böcking discovered the property in near ruin and set out to restore it with patience and passion. Stone by stone, they revived the main house, outbuildings, and terraces, respecting the original architecture while adding thoughtful comforts. Today, Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros stands as a warm tribute to the region’s heritage and to the couple’s vision of hospitality rooted in simplicity, conversation, and care.
A “House Party” in the Douro
At the heart of the experience is Ursula Böcking, who continues to welcome guests like old friends. Evenings at the house are a highlight with guests seated for dinner at the same time. It’s not really like a restaurant meal, but more like a convivial set three-course dinner served at tables close enough for easy conversation with other travelers.
Both Paul and I agreed that the atmosphere felt more like a house party than a restaurant dining room. And we had the chance to meet so many interesting people!
The loyal staff, many from nearby villages, prepare the meals, assist with winery bookings, local walks, and travel logistics, always with warmth and a sense of pride in their home region.
Rooms & Facilities
Each of the twelve rooms and suites is individually decorated with rustic charm and subtle luxury. Some open to garden patios or private terraces, and all include heat and air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms, and Wi-Fi. Our room was categorized as a Superior Room and was extremely clean, well-appointed, and spacious with French doors leading to a private patio overlooking the pool. A complimentary carafe of Port was set on a small side table for us.
The grounds unfold across terraced hillsides carved into the landscape, with each vantage point revealing sweeping views of the Douro Valley below. We could not get enough of those views!
On-site amenities include:
Large outdoor swimming pool overlooking the Douro Valley
Whirlpool and sauna, one charmingly built into an old wine barrel
Tennis court and shaded gardens
Generous breakfast buffet. Lunch available by advanced request
Evening dinners with advanced reservation
Honor bars – one near the pool and one inside the manor
Game room and billiards table inside the manor
Accessibility
Because of the manor’s hillside setting and traditional stone pathways, Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros is not ideal for guests with significant mobility challenges. There are multiple levels and uneven cobblestone walkways. However, some ground-floor rooms may be suitable for guests who can manage a few steps. Our room was on the lower level and there were multiple steps to navigate, especially with luggage. I suggest confirming availability and layout with the property before booking.
Exploring the Douro: Pinhão and Beyond
Just 10 minutes downhill lies Pinhão, the heart of the Douro Valley and one of the region’s most picturesque villages.
Pinhão Railway Station – Admire 24 panels of blue-and-white azulejos from 1937, depicting vineyard life and rabelo boats that once carried Port wine to Vila Nova de Gaia.
Miradouro de Casal de Loivos – One of the most photographed views in Portugal. Sunset here feels like a private performance by the valley itself.
River Cruises – Small wooden boats and traditional barcos rabelos depart daily from the pier, offering a serene perspective of the valley’s grandeur.
Wine and Port tastings – The area is home to many wine and Port houses.
If You Visit
Getting There:
By Car: From Porto, take the scenic N222 along the river, often called one of the world’s most beautiful drives. The manor offers free on-site car parking for guests.
By Train: The Linha do Douro from Porto’s São Bento Station runs to Pinhão; taxis are available to the property (approx. 10 minutes).
Travel Tips:
Reserve for the dinners early as space is limited and often full. We reserved for all three nights of our stay. As of this writing, the price per person was 58€ including wine and 50€ without wine for a three-course dinner. Dinner is served at 8:00 pm and the menu changes daily since everything is prepared with whatever is fresh for the day. If you have dietary restrictions, let the staff know in advance.
Bring comfortable shoes for walking on uneven stone paths.
Ask the staff for help booking winery tours as they have local connections. There are also several brochures at the reception desk with area information.
Since the drive to the manor is up a steep, curving hill (with some areas not having any guardrails), I would suggest not attempting to navigate the roads after dark or after too many wine tastings.
Although taxis and Ubers do take passengers to/from the manor, it can be sporadic. To avoid disappointment, reserve transportation well in advance or even better, rent a car.
Address: Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros, Chanceleiros, 5085-201 Pinhão Portugal
Phone: +351 254 730 190
Website: www.chanceleiros.com
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Until next time…
Obrigada!
Carol.
Great article! What is the best time(s) of the year to visit that region?
Beautiful photos! We love Pinhao. We used to sleep there in our van before it got so crowded. I stay at the Vintage sometimes. The food looks amazing!!! Obrigada!