Monsaraz, Portugal
A medieval village in the Alentejo
Monsaraz is a tiny medieval hilltop village located close to the border with Spain. It’s located in the eastern Alentejo region of Portugal and overlooks the Alqueva Lake with vast and spectacular views of the Guadiana Valley. During a road trip to Évora, we visited Monsaraz (about a 50-minute drive from Évora), and were enchanted by its preserved medieval charm.
Brief history.
Throughout the centuries, the Celts, Romans, Visigoths, and Moors all occupied Monsaraz. In 1167, the Knights Templar regained control of the village from the Moors. Plans to construct a castle and fortified walls began during the reign of King D. Afonso III and was completed by King D. Dinis in the 14th century. Because of its hilltop advantage, the castle was a military stronghold for many centuries. In the 19th century, the castle and surrounding grounds were converted to a bullfighting arena.
Stepping into the past.
We drove up a narrow, cobbled road leading to the village, with winding twists and turns up to the top of the hill. There are four entrances to the schist stone village. Apart from residents and service-related vehicles, parking is prohibited within the walls of the village. However, there are several well-marked public parking lots just outside the walls near each of the entrances and there are also parking spaces on the road along the wall.
We parked on the road alongside the wall and stepped into the past.
The village is charming with whitewashed buildings and uneven cobblestone lanes. Monsaraz is considered to be one of the most beautifully preserved villages in Portugal. There’s a peacefulness as you walk along. We stopped frequently to listen to the quiet. It would be hard not to feel the history of this place as you walk along the worn ancient stone roads.
Occasionally, we saw a resident, many of whom are older. The mail carrier who was working his way along the narrow streets in his mail vehicle, stopped to talk to most of them who came out to get their mail. We were told that about 30 people make the walled village their full-time home.
Monsaraz Castle.
Walk along the main street and you’ll come to Monsaraz Castle. Classified as a National Monument of Portugal, the castle interior is not open to the public. But it’s the castle grounds that are the most impressive with panoramic vistas. This would be a great place to watch sunsets.
Shops and restaurants.
Although we visited in the off-season, there were a few artisan shops and restaurants open.
We stopped for lunch at Xarez. It was chilly outside, so we ate indoors. Our table was by the window and overlooked vistas of green pastures with grazing sheep and rolling hills. So relaxing (and the food was excellent!)
If you visit:
The best way to reach Monsaraz is by car or tour operator. Parking is not allowed inside the walls, but the parking lots are within a short walking distance of the entrances. For those with mobility issues, there are some steep inclines and uneven pavement. Inside the walls, the roads are all cobblestone and uneven.
There are public restrooms in the village. Most restaurants will have restrooms for their customers.
In high season, artisan shops are open as well as wine tasting shops and restaurants.
There are various cultural events held in the summer, mostly in July (peak season). The crowds are fewer if you visit in the spring (March to May) and in the fall (September to October).
The Igreja Matriz de Nossa Senhora da Lagoa church located in the village is worth visiting as it dates from the 16th and 17th centuries. The church was undergoing renovations when we visited so we were not able to go inside.
The castle grounds have panoramic views. The stairs are uneven and steep in many places.
For more information on Monsaraz including things to see and do in the area, check out this resource.
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Until next time…
Obrigada!
Carol.
I wish I could add a photo here. We have 4 photos of the cantadors that are honored in the tiles set into walls along the main street. Did you encounter the men folding lavender into dense cones to scent drawers.and cabinets? And of course, a tour of Shariz distillery nearby. It's a diverse area to explore!
Enjoyed it yet again, thanks.