Pousada de Viseu
Be a guest in a former hospital.
Whenever we travel throughout Portugal, we enjoy staying in pousadas whenever possible. In previous posts, I’ve written about a few of the ones we’ve stayed in. We like pousadas because there’s so much interesting history in these repurposed buildings! In December 2023, Paul and I took a trip to Viseu and decided to see what it would be like to be guests in a former hospital.
If you’re not familiar with what a pousada in Portugal is, check out this brief description from one of my previous pousada articles.
About Viseu.
Located in the center of Portugal, about 3 ½ hours north of Lisbon is the small city of Viseu. The original settlement of the area dates from the end of the Roman Empire and the beginning of the Middle Ages. It is also an important part of the Dão wine making region.
Viseu is not on most tourist routes as trains do not stop there. But it is a pleasant destination for exploring Dão wine country and for day trips to Coimbra, Aveiro, and Porto.
There are a few interesting things to see in Viseu including the Grão Vasco Museum, and the Viseu Cathedral. To learn more about Viseu and its history, check out this video from POV Tours.
Pousada de Viseu History.
This square-shaped neoclassical building was the former S. Teotónio Hospital which dates to 1842. There are 4 floors with a 500 square-meter enclosed cloister set in the center, all constructed of heavy stone with 26 impressive arches.
It took many years to build this massive structure. In 1793 the first stone was ceremoniously laid by Bishop Francisco Moreira Pereira de Azevedo and in 1842, the first patients were admitted. The hospital operated for 155 years, closing in 1997, and the building remained abandoned for the next 10 years.
Converting the building into a pousada began in 2007 and in February 2009, this repurposed hospital began receiving hotel guests. There are photos of the reconstruction of the hospital tastefully displayed throughout the interior of the pousada.
At the top of the main entrance, there are 3 statues representing Faith, Hope, and Charity.
What it’s like to stay in a former hospital.
The pousada is located within walking distance of many of the historic attractions in Viseu as well as the downtown shopping district. Paul and I used this hotel as a basecamp for some planned and unplanned day trips including a visit to the village where my grandmother was born and a trip to the charming village of Cabeça.
Drive through gates to the main entrance. Walk inside and you’re greeted by friendly reception staff (most speak adequate English). Our room was on the second floor, accessible by an elevator or staircase. The room was very clean, spacious with a king bed, a table and chair, a desk and chair, ample closet space, and a small refrigerator. Two large balconies overlooked parking areas which were not especially attractive. The bathroom was modern, but the sides of the tub/shower were unusually high and there were no grab bars to hold onto, which made getting in and out of the shower a daily challenge.
Our floor was also where the spa and indoor pool were located. In the long, wide hallway, we could look down onto the enclosed cloister which contained a small bar, comfortable sofas and chairs, and a large-screen television.
Just off the cloister, there’s the room where a breakfast buffet is served every day. Another room contains Restaurante Viraito, which serves traditional, local cuisine. We’ve stayed in other pousadas where the restaurants were cozier and had more charm. We dined at Veraito and although the dinner was good, we’ve had better, and the décor was extremely modern and too-brightly lit. We felt like we were dining in a (hospital) cafeteria instead of an upscale restaurant.
From a pharmacy to a wine shop.
Perhaps one of the highlights of our stay at Pousada de Viseu was the unexpected surprise of finding a wine shop on the premises and meeting a passionate husband-and-wife winemaking team.
Housed in the former hospital pharmacy is the Amora Brava wine shop. One of Portugal’s newest wine producers in the Dão wine region, Amora Brava is the brainchild of Susana de Melo Abreu, PhD (in Enology) and husband, oenologist and wine consultant to several Portuguese wine labels, Carlos Silva. The couple decided to pursue their own winemaking enterprise based on the foundation of their love of family and passion for Portuguese wine.
Bottles of their signature label, Indio Rei as well as reserve wines they produce were tastefully displayed on the shelves of this former pharmacy. The wines were available for tasting and a visitor could enjoy these exceptional wines while perusing artwork by Susana and Carlos’ friend, artist Sergio Remondes.
The wine shop in the pousada was only a few weeks old during our visit. But as busy as they were, Susana and Carlos took the time to talk to us about their wines, their history, and their family. We felt fortunate to taste some of their exceptional wines during our stay and learn more about this lovely couple. We exchanged contact information with them so we can plan a visit to their vineyard in the future.
All pousadas in Portugal are different. Some we have enjoyed more than others, but that’s a matter of individual preference. Although this pousada was very nice, in our opinion, Paul and I agree that we have enjoyed other pousadas more.
If you visit:
Pousada de Viseu, Rua do Hospital, 3500-161, Viseu. 84 Rooms including 20 suites.
Free guest parking on premises. Several parking spaces for folks with mobility issues.
Additional guest parking on the lower level of the property requires walking up a slight incline to the front entrance.
Breakfast served daily. Restaurant on premises serving lunch and dinner (check website for times).
Small bar in the cloister serving beverages and light fare from 10:00 am.
Outdoor pool (seasonal).
Indoor pool and spa (you must make reservations for both).
Guests with mobility issues should ask about accessible rooms. The hallways are wide and level. There is an elevator.
Amora Brava wine shop and tasting room.
Other restaurants
There were a few other restaurants within walking distance of the pousada. Two that we dined at and can recommend:
Inprovviso Ristorante – Casual, small restaurant serving artisan pizzas and a small selection of Italian entrees (changes daily). Reservations are recommended. The food and service were excellent.
Cortico – Recommended to us by Susana and Carlos, this is a traditional Portuguese restaurant serving a variety of delicious foods. Reasonably priced. Good service. Cozy atmosphere. Reservations are recommended.
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Until next time…
Obrigada!
Carol.
Interesting as always! I see exactly what you mean about the restaurant- very cold, but I love the former pharmacy turned wine shop- beautiful and lovely photos!
Have you been to the Pousada in Estoi? We hold our Rotary meetings there and it is lovely.