Three Hidden Gems in São Miguel, Azores
Venture Off the Beaten Path in São Miguel's Lesser-Known Villages.
Dear Readers,
In late September 2024, I took my very first trip to São Miguel in the Azores. I traveled with my husband Paul, and two friends. For those unfamiliar with the Azores, this is a stunning archipelago consisting of nine volcanic islands nestled in the North Atlantic Ocean. It is also an autonomous region of Portugal. While the Azores are part of Portugal, they enjoy a significant degree of autonomy, particularly in areas such as governance, finance, and legislation.
São Miguel is the largest of the islands. You can reach it from Lisbon on a two-and-a-half-hour direct flight. If you’re traveling from the U.S., the flight is just under five hours from Boston, Massachusetts. The airport is in the city of Ponta Delgada.
Tourists everywhere.
Much to my disappointment (although I really should not have been surprised), the island of São Miguel has become a popular tourist destination. One of the locals told me that ten years ago, the island was much quieter. Now, especially in Ponta Delgada, the capital of São Miguel, you’ll find cruise ships coming and going, five-star hotels, plenty of restaurants, touristy shops, tour buses, and many historical landmarks. I had hoped that traveling in late September would mean that there would be fewer tourists, but I was wrong.
My Azorean roots.
The primary reason for this trip was to visit the villages that my paternal grandparents were born in. This was an entirely different experience than when I found family on my maternal side in a little village in the center of Portugal. I will be writing about my personal experiences traveling back to the place of my paternal Azorean roots in more detail in a future newsletter.
Three villages worth exploring.
While many visitors to São Miguel flock to the popular destinations like Ponta Delgada and Sete Cidades - which are truly beautiful places - there are still some hidden gems that remain off the beaten path. Having rented a car so we could travel independently, we discovered three relatively lesser-known villages: Nordeste, Povocão, and Sete Cidades Village. Each village offers its own distinct charm, natural beauty, and cozy spots to eat and explore, making them ideal for visitors who are seeking more of an authentic Azorean experience.
Nordeste: A Haven of Nature and Birthplace of my Grandparents.
Nestled in the easternmost part of São Miguel, the village of Nordeste offers some of the island's most stunning views, lush landscapes, and a peaceful atmosphere. While it is known for its rugged coastline and dramatic cliffs, Nordeste is often overlooked by tourists heading to the more famous destinations. This is also the village that both of my paternal grandparents were born in, so I was especially interested in visiting this area.
This beautiful village is one of the cleanest I have seen in Portugal! When my late father turned 80 years old in 2007, he traveled to Nordeste. This was the first and only time he ever visited the Azores. Although at the time he was not able to find much information about his father’s exact place of birth in Nordeste (I have since hired a genealogist to uncover more specifics), he did tell me that he stood in Nordeste village square by the church and felt his father’s presence. I stood there as well and it felt familiar and peaceful to me.
We stopped for lunch at O Forno, a popular Nordeste Portuguese café and snack bar, and sat at an outside picnic table, chatting with hikers from Canada who were enjoying the natural beauty of the area. Paul and I agreed, that if ever were to live in São Miguel, Nordeste would be the spot!
Within the village of Nordeste, there are smaller villages including Lomba da Fazenda, the birthplace of my paternal grandfather.
Lomba da Fazenda is a picturesque village surrounded by lush forests and sweeping ocean views and offers a perfect starting point for exploring the island’s natural beauty. From here, visitors can embark on scenic hikes through the forest or enjoy stunning vistas of the ocean and hills. I was awestruck by the peacefulness and the panoramic views including Miradouro da Ponta do Sossego, one of the best viewpoints in the Nordeste region, offering sweeping views of the coastline.
There are Airbnb’s in Lomba da Fazenda, so the folks here are accustomed to the occasional visitor. In the future, I would like to spend some time here and do more “boots-on-the-ground” research of my Azorean heritage.
Povoção: The Heart of São Miguel’s Countryside.
We weren’t really looking for this village, but we’re happy that we stumbled upon it. Located on the southeastern corner of São Miguel, Povoção is a tranquil village that feels like a step back in time. With its cobbled streets, rural charm, and agricultural roots, Povoção is an ideal destination for those wanting to experience the authentic Azorean way of life, away from the more tourist-heavy towns.
There are approximately 6,000 inhabitants in this village, which largely remains a fishing and farming town.
There are plenty of cafés and shops selling handmade pottery, local textiles, and other traditional Azorean products here. There’s also a 4-star waterfront hotel that overlooks the harbor. This village would be a great spot to unwind, escape the pressures of life, and relax for a few days.
Sete Cidades Village: Skipped by most tourists.
While Sete Cidades, known for its iconic twin lakes, Lagoa Verde and Lagoa Azul, is one of the most famous destinations on São Miguel, is was Sete Cidades Village that interested me. The village has a rich cultural identity and offers a unique, off-the-beaten-path experience for those willing to explore its less touristy corners.
We weren’t sure we were heading in the right direction on the winding rural roads leading to the village. But I knew that a landmark in the village was the Church of São Nicolau, so when I saw it, I knew we were in the right spot.
Igreja de São Nicolau (Church of São Nicolau) was built in the neo-Gothic style in the 19th century and became the seat of the town hall and parish in the 20th century. It is surrounded by gardens and pastures.
The church conveys a worn, simple elegance. The vestibule is adorned with Azulejo tiles. Outside, there is a replica of the statue of the Virgin Mary appearing before the three peasant children in 1917 in Fatima, Portugal.
Sete Cidades Village is a typical Azorean town with whitewashed and stone buildings, walls of gorgeous hydrangeas, and lots of pastures and farmland.
We stopped at a local convenience store to ask for a recommendation in town for lunch and were directed to Lagoa Azul, a family-owned establishment, where for 17 euros per person, we could dine on a buffet of delicious Azorean cuisine, bread, butter and a glass of beer or wine (dessert was extra).
It was a foggy, overcast day, so the views that everyone talks about weren’t the best. However, we did stop along the shoreline of Lagoa Azul (Blue Lake), a short walk from the restaurant, where there was another, more modern restaurant called Green Love, which appears to cater to hikers, cyclists, and during better weather, lake enthusiasts.
Even though it was foggy, the lake took on an eerie calmness that I didn’t seem to mind at all.
Authentic Azorean culture.
From my viewpoint, these lesser-known villages of São Miguel offered the perfect blend of tranquility, breathtaking nature, and authentic Azorean culture I was hoping to find on this trip. Each village had its own unique appeal – and especially for me, Nordeste. With scenic trails, delicious food, and charming local businesses, these villages offer a more peaceful, intimate experience of São Miguel that shouldn’t be missed by likeminded visitors who are eager to explore beyond the usual tourist spots.
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Until next time…
Obrigada!
Carol.
Hi Carol,
I enjoyed reading your piece and would love to cross-post your work and share it with our readers and subscribers on our Substack publication, Portugal Calling.
https://portugalcalling.substack.com/
Thanks in advance.
All the best, cheers,
Rui
The two times I've been to São Miguel have been in the winter, which is the easiest way to ensure you feel off the beaten tourist path. It even felt like I was one of very few tourists in the airport :) My actual destination was Flores, so I spent quite a bit of time in the airport. I was glad the delays gave me time to run errands and stock up on groceries. When I'd planned to visit São Miguel last year, I ended up getting stuck on Flores for a few days, so didn't have nearly enough time to explore in the end. This is inspiration to try again!