13 Comments

Great write-up on Milfontes Carol (PS. Did you not try the gelato at Mabi? Best ice cream in the region!)...as Marta says you'll have to come a bit further south next time down what they call the last wild coast in Europe...we're about half an hour south facing inland to the countryside but just 15 mins to our nearest beach - Zambujeira do Mar.. But we've been finding even more hidden gems...while it's busy in the summer there are still secret beaches a little off the track which you can have to yourself in August! I wrote a post last year about our best of of region with plenty of links etc which might be of interest for your next trip...you should pop by and see us! Al

https://alastairleithead.substack.com/p/weve-nailed-it

Expand full comment
author

Alastair - Thanks for your comment. At the time of our visit, most places were closed and we did not have the chance to try Mabi, but I will definitely put it on the list! Milfontes was part of our Algarve road trip - even though Milfontes is on the Alentejo coast. We're hoping to plan a fall road trip to the Alentejo to do more exploring. We're not as much into touristy areas as we are the hidden gems, so I thank you for the link to your post. And yes...we would love to stop by and see you! - CW

Expand full comment

what a wonderful little village! sorry we missed it. and i love your travelogues! hope all is well with you in beautiful portugal!

Expand full comment

Whiteman’s Rule: You know you have reached the center of the village when you have to pull in the mirrors to drive down the street.

Expand full comment
author

I just close my eyes and trust that Paul will handle it...

Expand full comment
Apr 13, 2023Liked by Carol A. Wilcox

Thank you for this Carol. Sounds lovely, we will definitely add it to our list

Expand full comment
Apr 13, 2023Liked by Carol A. Wilcox

Hello. (Wonderful texts. Interesting perspectives.)

Just a few comments from a portuguese reader.

1 - The refinery was built in Sines because of the depth of the ocean there, it allows very big tankers ships to reach it.

2 - If you go to Vila Nova de Milfontes between June and September... It is crooowded. (Yuck!) Mostly nationals, that go on holiday there (year after year after year). The same happens in almost all the most well known villages on that coast (Porto Covo, Sines, Zambujeira do Mar...).

3 - Hidden gems... Almograve. (And going further "down" the coast: Porto das Barcas, Cabo Sardão - a cape with a lighthouse -, and Odemira, inland.)

4 - Sad note: Although it is a very wide nature conservation area, money talks louder. Many (far too many!) km of berry/salads plantations (mostly all of non portuguese origin) have been allowed (!!!) to settle there. You will see hundreds of workers (almost as slaves) working there: nepalese, indian, pakistani... If one goes a bit inland... It is horrible! For the original inhabitants, for nature, for all! (And we know that when the soil is drained, and there will be no more water - for irrigation for all they grow there is a must - they all will disappear - owners, businesses, workers... And the "profits" will be elsewhere too. Poor silly people that allow our incompetent politicians to rule.)

Anyway, it IS a beautiful area and it is worth the trip.

Expand full comment
author

Thanks for your comment, Marta. It's always nice to have your perspective. And I'll be sure to put the "hidden gems" on our list to explore! - CW

Expand full comment
Apr 13, 2023Liked by Carol A. Wilcox

I think (but do not know) that Sines is the terminal for gas, as in LNG rather than oil. It is one of the reasons that Spain and Portugal were less impacted by the Russian oil embargo. Does not stop the stink though!

Expand full comment
author

Hello Andy - thanks for your comment. I think you're probably correct as I have heard something similar. And I suppose, a blessing that Portugal and Spain aren't as negatively impacted by the oil embargo because of it. It's a shame that the refinery takes up so much of the beautiful coastline, though. That reason alone would keep us from wanting to move there when there are so many other beautiful places in Portugal! - CW

Expand full comment
Apr 13, 2023Liked by Carol A. Wilcox

Looks beautiful and quite charming! Loved learning about this pretty little place and loved the photos! Thank you!

Expand full comment
Apr 13, 2023Liked by Carol A. Wilcox

So happy for you to have visited Milfontes. Truly enjoyed your post and the memories that surfacd. Isn't Sines odd?! And people are moving there due to costs, but then realize that its a bit stinky.

Expand full comment
author

Thanks for your comment, Susan. We did enjoy the village and the surrounding area! Regarding Sines, we have American friends who live in Cascais and they specifically asked us what we thought of Sines since they had heard it was nice and I think at one time thought they'd move there. They were surprised to learn about the refinery. We didn't have the windows down in the car when we drove through Sines as it was a chilly day so we didn't experience the stink. But the refinery takes up so much of the beautiful waterfront! I understand it's necessary, but if I had a choice of where to live, this wouldn't be it. To each his/her own, I guess... - CW

Expand full comment